THE PATTERN
I got a few requests for this dress pattern. I have yet to receive a photo of anyone wearing their own brown dress, thank goodness! But if you want it, here it is . . .
I just make my patterns for my own use and I've never attempted to share one before, so there is obviously no guarantee that this will translate correctly or that my instructions will work. Heaven knows, the one thing I *don't want* is for you to waste time and be frustrated attempting to construct a copy of my dress, when your own invention would doubtless be more interesting and more suitable for you!
BUT if you really want to make a dress that looks a lot like mine, here's my good-faith attempt to share.
If you want to try to blow up the photos and use these actual pattern pieces, I used a tape measure in each photo so you can get the sizes in the right ballpark. If you have experience with making or adjusting patterns, you can probably create something very similar or find a darted dress pattern and adapt it.
The waist should fall at your actual natural waist. Mine has quite a bit of ease, enough so I can wear a pair of jeans and a warm shirt underneath the dress when needed. Remember, this is built to fit *me*, I am 5'3" and as you can see from all my photos, I have a medium/muscular build and not too much of bosom -- make a muslin version and adjust to fit you, mark the heck out of it, and then disassemble the muslin and use it as your pattern to cut your dress fabric. I know it's tedious, but there's just no other way to get the darts right!
What fabric? Well, mine is a heavyweight denim that softened over time, but any woven fabric of any weight would work. I don't recommend stretchy fabric.
All pieces should be cut with the grain running left to right as pictured. All have a 5/8" seam allowance provided.
My attempt at stitching instructions is below the pattern piece photos.
bodice front (cut 2)
bodice back (cut 1 on fold)
skirt front (cut 2)
skirt back (cut 1 on fold)
back facing (cut 1 on fold). I'm sorry this photo is so washed out, the
"top" edge in this photo is the edge to place on the fold.
front facing (cut 2)
pocket (cut as many pockets as you want!)
Instructions
Make your muslin and adjust your pattern (you will be infinitely more happy if you take the time to build the darts so they fit you perfectly). Then use your muslin as the pattern to cut your dress fabric.
For longest lifespan of garment, finish all pattern piece edges by serger (or wide zig-zag stitch) before assembling.
Sew darts on bodice front and back, and skirt front and back. Press (and topstitch if desired).
Stitch together bodice front and bodice back at side seams. Press.
Stitch together skirt front and skirt back at side seams. Press.
Stitch bodice to skirt at waistline (adjusting to match the darts vertically if possible). Clip seam allowance to reduce bulk. Press and topstitch.
Stitch front facing to back facing at side seams. Press.
Finish the facing edge as desired (either serge, or press a 1/4 under and stitch it down).
Join facing to the dress (it faces the under-arms, the back of the neck, and all the way down the front of the dress on both sides). Stitch up to exactly 5/8" from where the shoulder seams will go. Clip under-arm and back-neck curves, clip seam allowance away at front of neck to eliminate bulk in that 90 degree corner. Turn and press.
Join dress at shoulder seams. Clip and press. Then press shoulder seam of facing, and handstitch closed to finish.
Pin the loose edge of facing to the dress, carefully the whole way around and topstitch the facing into the dress.
Hem to desired length - pin, press, and topstitch.
Overlap at the front and choose where you want your buttons. Mark, make buttonholes, and sew on buttons.
Finish pocket edges, turn edges under, press, and stitch into desired size & shape. Then topstitch patch pockets onto dress in desired locations - a few extra stitches to reinforce at the top corners is never a bad idea.
Embellish to taste, and enjoy!
-Alex